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2010s* Audi
1976 Dodge Aspen
Back in about '89-'90 I was the assistant manager at a fast oil change place, and we had a regular customer with a maroon '76 Aspen with a bullet-proof slant-six who got his oil changed with us regularly. I could hear him coming. I’d know it was him without even looking because of the distinctive TAP-TAP-TAP -TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP. We’d pull him in and he’d tell us to just change the oil and filter and don’t bother checking all that other stuff, so that’s what we’d do. We’d pull the plug and if more than a half a quart drained out we’d be surprised. After a filter swap, we’d fill it back up and restart it and it would go TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-tap-tap-tap-ta-ta-ta-t-t-t-t-t-t-t- etc and he’d smile and pay and be on his way. Of course, we’d see him again in about 3 or 4 months, same thing, rinse and repeat. The tapping was his signal to get it changed. Fast forward to '97, after working as a manager at other locations I came back to that same station as the manager there and I’ll be damned if that same guy in that same '76 Aspen didn’t pull in for the same service with that same oil-leaking loud-ass tapping slant-six, still hanging in there…
Do they not make the valve?
The OEM part is, as the service manager at the dealer put it, “on intergalactic back order.”
They don’t make the OEM part any more, and anyone who has new stock isn’t selling it to other dealers. You might be able to find a Chinese version, but if you have a warranty or service plan, you’re rolling the dice with it.
It’ll be a class action suit one day, I feel it in me bones. 🏴☠️
Should be a class action suit now. Isn’t it typical to have 10 year part availability?
That’s when you put in a block off plate instead.
Maybe I’m totally wrong, but doesn’t EGR stand for EXHAUST Gas Recirculation? Is the Volt a hybrid? I thought it was an EV and thus had no exhaust.
Edit: This was a joke, wasn’t it?
The volt is hybrid both gas and electric
The Volt is a hybrid gas & electric. The gas engine is there in part to charge the battery, and in part to power the electric drivetrain.
Under normal drive conditions, the gas engine short-cycles and doesn’t really come up to operating temp, which gums up the EGR valve causing the valve to pull too much current and start blowing fuses that power other critical parts of the battery charge control circuit. Left us stranded on an interstate this past spring until I could limp it to an auto parts store off the next exit to buy a replacement fuse. It ate two more before we could get home.
(edit: the OEM part is no longer manufactured, and what OEM stock is left is unobtainable. What’s left is remanufactured, Chinese aftermarket, or a scam. Install at your own peril.)
The workarounds to disable or bypass the EGR (for now) can cause other potential issues with the engine in the long run. Simply disconnecting the EGR keeps it from blowing fuses, but then the car isn’t road legal in many states because it fails emissions. Also, the EGR is part of the combustion engine’s cooling system, so not recirculating hot crank case gases works the rest of the cooling system harder, and potentially damages the pistons & cylinders.
The whole situation is a mess. Thankfully we have a second vehicle that’s a regular gas engine, so we use that one for distance driving, and can just use this one for around-town driving while we figure out what to do next with it.
A ten year old 1995 Kia Sportage. All sorts of electrical problems, the four wheel drive didn’t work and I could never figure out why.
I will say the engine was surprisingly durable. I got it stuck in the mud and a friend of a friend tried to help get it unstuck by trying to drive it out, but only managed to get it stuck deeper and cracked the block. I had to add new coolant every day, but I drove that car gor another 6 months with a cracked block and only had to spend a few minutes trying to coax the engine to start when it was cold.
Pro tip: Never buy the first year of any car, even used.
Wikipedia says the sportage was a Mazda with kia branding back then. Which probably explains why I only ever had electrical problems that weren’t from unrepaired damage.
I owned a Ford Escort that ran with a similar program of trade between Ford and Mazda (I think it was 96 or so). So the engine and such was Mazda in a Ford body. It was worn down from past abuse, but it ran a long time regardless before it gave up. Apparently the flip side of Mazdas in Japan that got the Ford mechanics were terrible, so I count my blessings.
I’ve only owned two cars. So the worst by default was a 1987 Ford Laser I owned in 2003.
It was the “Ghia” model. So central locking, sun roof. My uncle had modified the wheels, steering wheel, carbon shifter.
I actually loved it and it handled so well on gravel roads. But eventually the cv joints went, repaired, they went again, leaving me stranded 30km out of the nearest town.
I had a little Mazda B2200 truck for a while. The gauges didn’t work so I had no idea how much gas I had, how hot it was, or how fast I was going. And it leaked everything, gas included. Thing only actually got me to where I was going half the time.
Gave it to a friend and he fixed it up
A 2011 GMC Terrain. It burned oil like none other. The power steering would occasionally just not work upon starting the car, requiring me to turn it off and on again a several times. Sometimes, I’d stop at a red light, the engine would die, and when I’d restart it it’d go into limp mode. And traction control and AWD would occasionally just give out, which can be dangerous where I live due to ice and snow.
The thing was a hazard and GMC and all associated brands can fuck right off.
Hyundai sonata 2017
The door hinges do not hold the doors open. If the car is on a slight incline or a very slight wind the doors will slam shut. Better not have an arm or leg in the way.
The rear view mirror is set so low in the window that it blocks view of front right of the window.
The seats are hard as rocks. You can literally feel a metal bar that goes left to right through the seat. It’s right under your butt.
I’ll never buy another Hyundai again. Zero chance.
1990s Plymouth Caravan
I had an '82 Ford Escort. Those things were notorious for lunching the motor if the timing belt ever broke (which they did every 45,000 miles like clockwork) while you were traveling down the road. The valves would stop in whatever position they were in at that instant, and then the momentum of the car would keep the pistons moving up and down, bashing the piston tops in to whichever valves were unlucky enough to still be open, ruining pretty-much everything. At the same time I owned that car, my best friend owned an '82 Chevy Cavalier. We were constantly one-upping each other over who owned the biggest turd…
To be fair, that’s the expected outcome for any interference engine that loses the timing belt, which is almost all modern engines as far as I know. 45k is a really short lifespan for a timing belt though :/
actually now that I think back it was the water pump that regularly went out at 45k, and it was run by the timing belt. The noise coming from the water pump is what usually alerted me and I was able to replace it and the belt at the same time, which spared me from ever losing the motor. I drove that thing til it had over 160k on it, which was a lot for one of those…
Worst I’ve owned was a Saturn. Worst I’ve driven was a Chevy Malibu.
An Audi TT.
FUCK Audi. Never again. Nothing but problems with that heap of shit, and repairs cost more than I paid for the car.
I had a passat for 3 days when the engine almost exploded going over a bridge from engine sludge. I loved my Ranger and hate to speak ill of it, but it was a ford. I kept a full wrench set and spare parts under the jump seats. Most parts I’ve ever changed on a car and some repeatedly. Ultimately gave in to its unfixable head warp.
2012 hyundai tucson. Wow, what a piece of junk. The suspension was all but fallen and rattled down the road, it was high-centered, and drove like a unicycle.
2001 F150, hands down
